As soon as you step into the Siab Bazaar, just steps from Registan Square, the smells wrap around you: cumin, paprika, fresh coriander, and the sweet scent of dried fruit stacked in pyramids. This is where the people of Samarkand have shopped for generations, in an atmosphere that has almost nothing of a tourist trap despite its popularity.
A sensory journey
The dried fruit stalls are impressive: apricots, raisins, figs, walnuts and almonds line up as far as the eye can see. The vendors, often women in colourful dresses, always invite you to taste before buying — a ritual that's always done with a smile, with no pressure.
A little further on, bakers pull out non, round breads baked in clay ovens (tandir), still warm and stamped with iron patterns. Some stalls have been run by the same family for three or four generations.
"The Siab Bazaar is Samarkand in its rawest form: generous, noisy, warm."
Spices, the stars of the bazaar
You can't miss the mounds of multicoloured spices: turmeric, smoked paprika, custom plov spice blends prepared to each family's taste. It's also the perfect place to bring home an authentic culinary souvenir, light in your luggage and one that will bring the trip back to mind for a long time.
Practical tips for your visit
- Come ideally in the late morning, when activity is at its peak but before the afternoon heat
- Haggling exists but stays modest, don't push it too far
- Keep some small banknotes in som to make purchases easier
- Try the tandir bread still warm, right there on the spot — it's a delight
Allow one to two hours for the visit, and don't hesitate to get lost in the side alleys, often less crowded and just as rich in colours and smells.